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If you can help us
with any of the following questions or requests,
or have a question or request of
your own,
Please e-mail the society at,

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and not a link.
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This is to discourage spamming search engines.
Unanswered questions may be
removed if no replies received within a few months
Q
A |
Should a fig tree be
fertilised in winter? No you
should not fertilize it in winter. It needs to "sleep".
Wait until spring to fertilize it. Quite often figs do
better with compost and little fertiliser. |
Q
A |
How are seedless grapes
grown? They are propagated by
removing sections of the plant called vine eyes. The bud
where the leaf would grow is cut out, planted and roots
form. Generally they are grown from cuttings. |
Q
A |
How do you ripen
blueberries? They need to be
picked when ripe as they do not ripen after picking. |
Q
A |
Which fruit contains a
lot of anti-oxidant?
Blueberries have more antioxidants than most other
fruits and vegetables. |
Q
A |
Which is the most
popular fruit?
Citrus is the most widely grown crop in the world. |
Q
A |
Why do oranges look
quite green in the tropics?
Tropical oranges are greener because the night
temperatures are warmer, which causes more chlorophyll
to migrate into the peel. They are still ripe and sweet
though. |
Q
A |
Why do nectarines have
stones similar to peach?
Nectarines are just peaches without the fuzz. |
Q
A |
Why are citrus trees
often thorny?
Immature growth on most citrus trees will have sharp
thorns. These tend to break off as the wood gets older. |
Q
A |
Is it better to eat
potatoes with their skin on?
Yes - most of the nutrients in a potato reside just
below the skin layer. The skin also adds fibre to your
diet. |
Q
A |
Are tomatoes good for
your health?
Tomatoes are very high in carotenoid - Lycopene. Eating
foods containing carotenoids can lower your risk
of cancer. |
Q
A |
Why do nectarines have
stones similar to peach?
Nectarines are just peaches without the fuzz. |
Q
A |
What are Craisins?
Craisins are dried cranberries. Many
people like them better than raisins. They are tarter
than raisins. |
Q
A |
Is a Vanilla persimmon the same as a Fuyu?
They are both non-astringent.
The Vanilla is a larger fruit and seems to have more
flavour. |
Q
A |
Information about Spur Lambert cherry?
Spur Lambert is apparently another name for a
Lambert cherry. See our article in Fruit Info -
Cherry. |
Q
A |
Has anyone had experience growing cassava (tapioca)?
Cassava is being grown commercially on a small
holding at Blackbutt, NSW. In cooler areas, tubers
must be harvested as soon as leaves drop to prevent
rotting in the ground. |
Q
A |
In the early 80s, Lasscocks Nursery in Adelaide,
sold a fig labelled 'Black Turkey'. Does anyone have any
info on this variety? It has an excellent Breba fruit
which ripens about Christmas day. |
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Q
A |
Does anyone have information on
Climax or Standard plums? Are they European or Japanese
varieties? Climax is Japanese.
This is a large,
heart-shaped fruit, very highly coloured, juicy and
luscious with a fine perfume
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Q
A |
Linda and Ryan avocadoes - are they 'A' or 'B' type
for pollination?
Ryan is a 'B' type. It is a Guatemalan - Mexican hybrid |
Q
A |
Mason bees are solitary
native bees which are excellent pollinators of fruit
trees, especially on cooler days. Do they inhabit South
Australia? The Blue Banded bee
is similar and found in most states. |
Q
A |
Where do strawberries
come from? When a mommy
strawberry falls in love with a daddy strawberry...
|
Q
A |
When can citrus be
budded? When sap is flowing and
there has been a recent growth flush so that the bark is
still slipping. Buds are taken, preferably from an upper
section of the tree, not a watershoot with spikes.
Leaves are removed leaving part of the leaf stalk. The
budwood can be grafted immediately or kept in the fridge
for up to six weeks. |
Q
A |
How to get Dragonfruit (Pitaya)
to flower?
Light and time are the ingredients, the plant must be
well grown and in strong light. The problem in Southern
states is getting a long enough warm season to induce
flowering. Turn the stems down to induce flowering.
Large flowers last only one day and do better with hand
pollination. |
Q
A |
White sapote grafting
techniques?
Take budwood when the new wood is hardening after
growth. Wrap the graft in parafilm or clingwrap to
prevent drying, the buds will push though these covering
materials.
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Q
A |
Avocado grafting
techniques?
Chip buds work with avocado. Do not take budwood after
fruiting or in winter. Bend a twig and take buds from
the top of the wood which does not bend easily. The top
of the twig will usually bend a lot while lower wood is
stiff. Take from the area between them. Graft on to a
seedling leaving some leaves below to support the plant.
The graft should be encouraged by bending down any nurse
branches left on the seedling to give the graft
dominance. Take off regrowth near the graft but leave
leaves below for food supply. |
Q
A |
Bird deterrents?
Crow bird scarers and other scarers work for a while.
Glue and taste repellents are available but have
difficulties. Nets are most reliable. |
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Requests
| R1
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Contributions of digital fruit images for our
web site |
| R2 |
Articles about fruit growing or experiences for
our web site |
| R3 |
Does anyone have an early
flowering male kiwi fruit to pollinize Kiwi Gold? |
| R4 |
Does anyone have a palm which
will fruit in Southern Australian states? |
| R5 |
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| R6 |
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Success
Stories
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S1
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Cherimoya Success by Arthur
Rudnick
I am sending the Rare Fruit Society some information
about the Cherimoya tree which I have growing and
the large fruit which it has produced. It is the
largest I have ever seen. Maybe other members have
grown larger fruit.
The tree is about 8 years old and was collected from
the Society. The variety is Spain. I do not hand
pollinate my flowers but by chance leave it to
nature. This year the tree has produced this large
fruit (photo supplied but not suitable for printing
in black and white). It has a circumference of 40cm
and weighs 854 grams.
When we ate the Cherimoya, it was delicious, juicy
and sweet. The taste and texture was something like
a "Duchess pear" but with a tropical flavour.
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S2 |
Plumcot Fruiting Heavily by
John Poole When I
purchased my 2 year-old Plumcot, I was told by the
nurseryman that they are shy bearers. During the
following 4 years this certainly proved to be
correct. The tree grew well but only produced a
sprinkling of fruit.
Just to practice my newly learned
grafting skills, I grafted a Plumcot scion onto an
outside limb of my 6 year old Moorpark apricot tree.
The graft grew extremely well and produced a dense
mass of large fruit for the next 4 years.
Alas, the Plumcot limb exceeded
the diameter of its parent and crashed to the ground
fully laden with ripe fruit.
A similar graft onto a D'Argen
plum only produces sparse fruit.
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S3 |
Grafting Pears by
Mark Henley
I am no John Redden in the grafting stakes, but my
instinct suggested to me that my success rate with
pears had not been good over recent years. I
recalled hearing or reading that it is better to
graft pears onto established rootstocks, so in 2005
I decided to conduct a mini trial on my Crafers
property
I planted 12 new pear rootstocks into new ground and
grafted each of them, immediately, with a different
variety of European pear. I also had 6 rootstocks
that I had planted in 2003 that had grown very
vigorously, particularly during the 2004/5 growing
season, so I put 39 grafts onto these trees. Again,
I used scions from different varieties, mainly
European, but also a selection of Asian (Nashi)
varieties too. All rootstocks were Pyrus Calleryana.
I had my grafting day in late July.
All of my grafts onto newly planted rootstocks were
whip and tongue, and on the established rootstocks I
performed 5 ‘spring grafts’ and the rest were whip
and tongue.
In December I picked up my pen and paper to record
my successes.
The result; 2 of my 12 grafts onto new
rootstocks were successful, while 37 of my 39 grafts
onto established rootstocks, including some pretty
‘rough’ grafts were successful. One whip and tongue
and one spring graft failed on the established
rootstocks.
While not a totally controlled experiment, I am
certainly convinced that in grafting pears, the
chances of success are greatly improved by grafting
onto established rootstocks, that is rootstocks that
have had at least one year in the ground. While some
may feel that waiting a year to graft wastes time,
my observation is that the rootstocks grow very
vigorously and when grafted in subsequent years, the
grafts move quickly too, so over a couple of years
there is virtually no loss in tree development.
Anyway, pears are not quick to fruit taking a couple
more years than apples, for example, but a pear tree
is a tree for life – remember the old adage – plant
pears for your heirs!
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